Tatacoa - Desert and night moto ride

Colombie Voyage Désert Tatacoa

Heading to Neiva

After this short rest, I head towards the bus station of Bogota at the early dawn. There are actually regular busses driving from the capital at almost any time. As I was still suffering from the jet lag, I didn’t mind to take a very early ride (waking up at around 3h00 AM for a departure around 4h30).

I take off of my airbnb and try to not wake up the guard at the entry of the building. Well, that wasn’t a success; as I closed the door the poor old man stood up and went in the street to check everything was alright. « Todo esta bien señor ! » am I trying to explain !

Finally my Uber arrived, after some stressful minutes in the middle of this lonely street where I could see shadows behind the trees, as well as many yellow cabs. I didn’t really want to test the trust of the drivers and stop them in the middle of the night to be honest ! The way to the station was … interesting. Most probably the driver was coming back from some sort of party the previous evening ! :)

The bus station looks like a small commercial center, where the entrances to the bus of different companies are located on several exits. At any time of the day, it is possible to buy food, drink, to have a chat with someone, including the personnel guard who helped me to find my way.

I chose the Coomotor company and I honestly never had such a comfortable bus ! Pristine and wide seats, with long flat position, personal USB charger, movies… Just like in a plane but even better !

Of course we can’t escape the stops a bit everywhere to take other passengers, but it is very well organized.

Now that the sun is rising, we enjoy to see the first landscapes outside Bogota, and Jesus we can see the nature is dominant here ! The diversity of the plants is impressive, the green is flattering the retina, the reliefs are succeeding on a quite big distance.

A few hours later, arrival in Neiva terminal under a heavy heat.

Let’s be clear, this town is a « hub » for travelers to various destinations and has absolutely no other interest, as confirmed in the Routard guide. Still, it does look like a very big town.

And this is here that I start to feel the boundaries in regards to my weak knowledge of Spanish while trying to find a ride to the village next to the desert, Villavieja. The reason is that in this terminal there are many shops spread everywhere, depending on which region you are going to, even for the same bus company !

Fortunately, thanks to the local security, I can find the transport mean which will lead me to my destination, that will be a … Jeep !

The driver is wearing a tie and suit, that looks promising ! Before departing, he is taking « care » to deposit my big bag on the roof of the metallic structure in the back of the jeep. I will do the ride with a couple of Colombian people.

The travel will last for an hour, full of bumps, winds, small rain and flying sunglasses which by the way will have given a nervous crazy laugh to all of us !! :) More than once have I seen my bag almost being thrown away or reversed by the wind or the steep turns of the driver.

And the best of the best was when our driver stopped at a fuel station … without shutting down the engine !

Visit of the desert and stars observation

Freshly, or warmly, out in Villavieja (literally « the old city »), I start to find first a place for the night to secure my future sleep. I find a small hotel, not really great and clearly expensive, but with AC cooling and personal shower, which I jump into because of the heat! It is 11h00 AM, the sun is almost at zenith and it is the southest part near the equador of the trip.

After some fresh water bottles bought in the corner shop I head myself towards the entrance of the Tatacoa desert by riding a « Tuc tuc », some kind of motorbike with a backseat (like in India). Very convenient and colorful !

The visit is free and there are actually two deserts, a gray and a red. I personally have done only the red one, the most impressive one. And what a spectacular place !

After having passed a few noisy Colombian tourists, I arrive in a place with a very special atmosphere, mixing arid and oasis vegetations. I do not have all the details but it seems that this desert was originally a rain forest with was completely dried, giving this astonishing mix of nature.

And of course, it is impossible to not mention this martian-like red color !

As I am walking, I can see some more humid zones and it is easy to put a step on a flabby floor (yes, my shoes were harmed on that day !). It will take two hours to get to the end of the loop of the path. I widely recommend to sit in the middle of this place, close your eyes and enjoy this magnificent silence.

At last comes the moment where the sky is washing up, the clouds leave the place for the pinky colors of the sunset in the sky. I was told it was beautiful, and I’m not the only one to wait forward to it ! Lost on the cliffs and the small hills, lot of young and less young people are taking seats for the show. Some are meditating, others listen to music while sharing a local creveza (Bogota Beer Club … Yummy !). Did I ever told you again that you can buy everything and anything at any time and any place in Colombia ?

It really was worth the wait. For the first time of my life I am able to witness the beauty of the south hemisphere constellations. I immediately recognize the South Cross, which is by the way much bigger than what I was expecting. I try also to take pictures but it won’t work, the clouds are coming back and I didn’t have my tripod. Moreover, the astronomical observatory will remain closed, I was expecting the visit of a local guide.

An American guy from Colorado was next to me, and he was thinking a big … « Meh » of this environment. I can’t realize someone could be blase in front of this ambiance and nature 🤷🏻‍♂️

Bumpy come back to Villavieja

Let’s put back some context: it is currently passed 8:00 PM, the sky is dark ink black because of the new moon, and the small village with my hotel is about 10 km from here.

It is so naturally that I walk towards the place where I was dropped off a few hours ago… But no transportation will come !

At dusk, the shuttle and taxi services stop and it really isn’t convenient is it ?

This is where I encounter a Colombian couple whose I try to explain my situation with an approximate Spanish. They were heading to a hostel for the night, but in the mean time we stopped a motorbike driver in the middle of the way. After exchanging some pesos, that person accepts to take and drop me at my hotel in the village. Pfew !

What followed next was a motorbike rise in the desert under the light of the stars, without helmet and zigzagging between other cars. If the morning jeep experience with the suit driver was scary, I think that latter experience has been one of the most creepy and exciting one at the same time. Who has never dreamt to ride, wind in the hairs, in the fresh night of a desert ? :D

After a quarter we reach the hotel. I pay my improvised driver and rush to the shower with a crazy story to tell, and obviously many pictures too !

I rest for the night, the next morning will be back to Neiva and the next destination - Salento !

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